My wife is good to me.
Bright & early tomorrow morning…. actually, as I write those words, I realise they no longer apply. The twins will have us up before this & it will probably not be worth my while to go back to bed….
early by old standards, but latish by current standards, I’ll pack some stuff, head out front & jump into a ute with my mate Aaron. We’ll head down to Avoca, slip into a wetsuit (it may have been 32 today, but the water is still chilly) and I can enjoy one of my favourite moments. We’ll be paddling out in the South Avoca rip (much easier), then we’ll hit that first waive point. At first I’ll bob over them, but at some point one will break as I get to it & I’ll lead down, duckdive & push through the wave.
When you’re tired, stressed, or have other things on your mind, that moment when you pop through & feel the salt water surround you is like re-birth.
It’s been a month & I really miss the surf. Have I been officially and completely converted?